Thursday, 17 July 2008
Robin Hood and Yorkshire
Yesterday I saw my old school play, "Robin Hood". I really enjoyed it, the sound when all the children were singing was excellent. It was also good, for the first time, to be able to sit back, relax and watch it without having to take photos, video, conduct, manage children etc. Oh, and I won the interval raffle and got a big box of chocolates - my first in 10 months!!!
Things I have noticed here in the UK:
It’s really nice being able to walk around here without looking at the floor all the time, like in Gilgel, where you’d trip over a rock or uneven surface if you did that. The smooth pavements are great!
It’s also so quiet. In Gilgel, you always have very loud insect / frog etc noise at night, and here there is nothing.
Things that have changed about me:
I did accidentally start to say "Amisaginalo" (thank you) to someone who brought me a coffee the other day and I have the urge to ask "sint now?" (How much is it?) in shops.
When I meet people, even people I don't know that well, I also want to shake their hands or hug them, like everyone does in Ethiopia.
Other than that, it really has been easy settling back down in the UK. I wonder if it will be as easy going back???
Yorkshire
Well, later today I’m off to my old university city, York, to walk the wall and stay the night, then to Scarborough for a few days. I love walking around there with the high peninsular with a castle on it, and, of course, the sea. Also, Whitby is near, and I might visit there.
Tuesday, 15 July 2008
7 days later...
I've settled back very quickly. In the last week: I've hired a nice new car (it plays MP3 CDs, has air con, power steering etc - a bit better than my 17 year old fiesta which died while I was away); been to McDonalds (twice); KFC (once); had cheesy chips on the beach at Eastbourne; watched a carnival at Brighton; visited my old school and done a presentation to all the children on my exploits in Ethiopia; visited friends and family; used the internet a lot; bought second-hand books from charity shops; bought books, DVDs and hardware from the net...
I love it!!!!
Tomorrow I go to watch "Robin Hood" a musical play being performed by pupils from my old school, then I'm going away for a few days before the schools break up for the summer holiday and it gets really busy.
Tuesday, 8 July 2008
I'm back!
I'm back in the UK. It's really weird because it feels like I was just in the house yesterday.
The flight left pretty much on time but was then delayed for over an hour in Rome, waiting for Heathrow to give us a time slot to land.
When we finally did land we had to wait another 15 mins for a gate to become free for us to "park".
I finally arrived home just after midnight (which is just after 2am for me on Ethiopian time.)
Sunday, 6 July 2008
Last entry from Ethiopia
I had a relaxing time in Bahir Dar, and then things started going downhill when I got a call on Friday to say my 1:30pm flight was delayed until 3.00pm. I got to the airport in plenty of time and we were actually on the plane at 2:30pm. The engines started and all was going well until the port engine cut out and a while later the pilot informed us there was a slight technical problem. I got a little worried when an old guy with a "garden-shed"-type toolbox walked across to us. After sitting on a hot plane (no engines, so no air) for about 45mins they announced that we had to get off and go back to the terminal. They didn't give us much more information, but it seemed like there was a plane flying up from Addis Ababa which could take us back.
The grey clouds gathering in the sky were a bit foreboding and my hopes faded as 5pm passed and it started a heavy downpour with lightning. Finally, at around 6pm they told us the flight was cancelled, but we would be put up at the Papyrus Hotel with free food. I could've gone back to Judith's, but it would've been more complicated with the transport and it was all going to be free anyway so I went for the hotel option. I had a nice fried fish, then went to my room to read (by torchlight as there was no power) and had an early night.
We were told that the bus would take us to the airport at 5:45am, so I was ready, but it eventually left at 6:15am. Then it was back at the airport, sitting around until finally we left around 8am. I got to my hotel in Addis around 9.45am and spent the day just going with the flow including visiting the museum with "Lucy" in it – the oldest discovered human who was found in Ethiopia, and eating an expensive cheese sandwich in "The Sheriton" hotel (£150 per night) while listening to someone play the piano in luxurious surroundings.
My next entry should be made using a broadband wireless connection in the UK!
Wednesday, 2 July 2008
No Communication - lots of news!!
No power since Sat night – I’m on the generator in the college
I think I got some emails out last week, but it didn’t stay connected long enough to receive.
Water was ok at the weekend but not on this morning.
Having got some kerosene in town, I am now using my kerosene stove which is quite good really. If you set it up correctly and get a blue flame, it doesn’t make things too black (like the wax one) and it’s hotter than the electric hot plate.
Mobile phone network still not working – it’s been over a week.
This is dialling and re-dialling and not connecting. It’s very annoying.
Appended on 10/06/08 at 8:48 – didn’t connect on Monday at all.
Water came on just as I was leaving this morning so I managed to fill things up. Went to visit a girls’ school with Marta (other VSO volunteer) yesterday – the government-run school for orphaned girls (or really, young woman as they are mostly 15 or over) will become part of the cluster in September.
Power came back in my house yesterday, but as the main “fuse board” to the mains in the college is down, it means they can only get electricity in the Admin building by using the generator.
Still no mobile signal.
At night, walking home, I have seen some dots of bright green flashing light. I haven’t been drinking, it’s made in the bodies of tiny fireflies and is quite cool!
Added on 11/06/08 evening - Desk Top Publishing
Well still no net connection or mobile signal. There is power, but there is no water again and hasn’t been since yesterday morning. I can survive two full days now (or 3 if I have a less frequent bowl wash!!!)
I’ve been working all day on Desk Top Publishing the Graduate magazine which includes the 100-odd photos of students I took before going to Addis (all sharing one gown and hat.) Also, editing the English text which sometimes is in very strange Ethiopian English order and has unusual vocabulary. It has also involved adding comments and messages in Amharic script.
I wonder if I’ll be back in the UK when this email finally gets sent!!!
Additional 23:15 - gint
I was watching a DVD when I saw something out of the corner of my eye. It was another scorpion trotting across the floor. It’s funny, it’s another word that I think of in Amharic first (gint) before English. I dispatched it with a blow from a bottle of multivitamins!!!
Added on 14/06/08
No internet or mobile all week. Marta has gone back to Addis.
Added on 16/06/08 - Bazaar
There was a Bazaar here at the weekend, which is like a county fair. Lots of important Ethiopians were here, more 4x4’s than I’ve ever seen in Gilgel. Also the water was on for a lot of the time, and the electricity was on all weekend. There was the unveiling of a sign and plaque, singing, stalls etc.
20/06/08 22:40 - English club
Well, I think the whole email blackout / no mobile signal is not a technical problem. It is possibly a political / security problem. Apparently in the troubles a few years ago the government turned off text-messaging on mobiles, so this could be a similar response to a perceived security threat.
Anyway, I’ve just returned from an “English Club” presentation in the main hall in the college. I set up the P.A. and music and with two hours to go found out I would be speaking. In the end the hall was full of instructors and students which I’m guessing was about 300 to 500 people. My speech went ok, I think – got a few laughs. The play the students did was good, but the whole programme went on for well over two hours with lots of speeches from different people and at one point a group of audience decided to leave, and the response from the “management” was to lock the doors – lock us all in!!!! Talk about a contained audience!!! At the end, when the doors were unlocked, a glass panel in the door was shattered in the rush to get out!!!
I finished DTPing the Graduate magazine and it’s gone off to print. I’ve been sorting out the CCU room and preparing my budget for next year so that everything is ready for me to leave next week (or maybe last week when this entry finally appears!)
Yesterday, “my” grade 2 class performed the songs I had taught them to several hundred other students in the school. The programme including “One two tie my shoe”, “London’s burning” (with round), “Frere Jacques” (with English French Accent!), “Head, shoulders knees and toes”, “Land of the silver birch” and “Hine ma tov” (Hebrew). They did really well.
Sad News
I heard some sad news in the week. Apparently, four VSO volunteers returning home a few nights ago in Addis Ababa were hit by a bus being driven by a drunk driver. One of them was killed instantly, and three others had a variety of broken bones etc and were flown out to Nairobi in Kenya for treatment. They are recovering well. This is what I believe happened, hearing it from a couple of sources, but for official news it is best to contact VSO direct. My best wishes go to those and Nairobi and to the family of the deceased.
22/06/08 School Celebration
To celebrate the end of the school year there was a “fair” at the local school, where I teach.
There were some stalls, like spin the wheel, roll the coin and “hit the hanging gourd with a stick while blindfolded” games. Also there was dancing and singing representing the major ethnic groups in the school: Amhara, Argo, Shanasha, Gumuz (I hope I didn’t forget anyone); a play about parents not letting their children go to school, so they can work in the fields; some speeches; and a P.E. display including lots of running and tumbling and at one point leaping over children laying on the ground. After each successful run, more children were added. I think it was a case of keep adding children until there is an accident! In the end I think 11 children laying side-to-side were jumped over, with the jumper landing on their hands and doing a back flip.
24/06/08 - proposal
The power was off from 0700-2130 yesterday, I guess on one of the “power sharing” cycles. Water still ok. Mobile network and internet still off. The baby in the house is cute, but annoying. I have to close my doors every time I go out, even for a second, otherwise he goes in there. This is particularly annoying when I am filling bowls and buckets and would usually leave the door open so I could carry it straight in.
I am currently teaching an English class to administrative staff twice a week, and for this week, I am teaching one of my neighbour’s children English.
I have finished my 2001 (Ethiopian Calendar) proposal for funding, and with the Graduate Bulletin finished there is not a lot to do at the moment. Still, in one week I will be leaving and going to Bahir Dar, then Addis, then home for a holiday.
25/06/08 - Wednesday - English class
This week I have been teaching English to my neighbour’s children at the cluster centre in the afternoons. The trouble is, other people got to hear about it and now I have three families!! I also found out today that I probably (as much as “probably” means here) be going to Bahir Dar on Friday. I also have to clear out my room as they may use it for other people in the summer.
27/06/08 – Friday - not leaving
Well I was right about “probably” – now the car isn’t going until Sunday (so I’ve been told). It did mean I could finish the last English Language Improvement class with the administrative staff, then in the afternoon taught English to children – from two of my neighbour’s children on Monday I ended the week with a “class” of eight today. Good fun though. I’ve also spent the last couple of days packing and tidying.
29/06/09 – Sunday - still not leaving
Still here. Yesterday the car was changed to Monday!! Will I ever get out of here? Very heavy rain and big storm yesterday afternoon. It is well into “Jungle” rain pattern now: Sunny in the morning, heavy rain in the afternoon. The streams are flowing and the river is high.
01/07/09 – Tuesday - Bahir Dar at last!
I am at last in Bahir Dar. After being told on Saturday, after two postponements, that we would definitely be going at 10am Monday, I went to the college at 9am to find out one of the people due to come on the trip was in another village and would not be back until lunchtime. When I saw him, on his return, he said we would go after lunch. I was told 2pm. After killing time until 3:30pm (during which I was not drinking for the journey, and basically sitting in a packed-away room) I went to the college to find out what was going on. It turned out to be bureaucracy basically – getting triplicate stamped forms signed by all the relevant people etc.
We eventually left at 4pm – left the college that is. We still had to collect a bag of charcoal from someone’s house (it’s more expensive in Addis so they were going to bring some along) and get fuel before we finally left Gilgel Beles. Of course then it wasn’t a straightforward journey: We stopped at the next village to get a school director to put the official school stamp on five sheets of order forms which took a while, then in Chagni, the Vice Dean spent ages in a shop getting butter, oh and we had our tyres inflated. All this squashed in the back seat with three other people.
When we finally arrived in Kosober, around sunset, they suggested it was too dangerous to go to Bahir Dar now, but I really wanted to get to Judith’s luxurious apartment, ferengi food and decent toilet so asked them to look for a minibus. There were none, so I ended up eating injura again (they ate raw meat) and sleeping in a 17 birr per night (about 90p) hotel where the wardrobe consisted of four hooks on the wall, and the en-suite toilet was a plastic bowl (that the Dean told me was for urine only – you get fined if you do a poo in it!!!) The shared toilets were horrendous and I didn’t fancy having to poo in them, that coupled with not knowing when I was leaving the next day prompted me for the first time to use Imodium to stop me pooing in the morning before arriving at Bahir Dar !
It was much cooler in Kosober. It’s at an altitude of about 2600m. The atmospheric pressure is about 75% of what it is at sea level, and in my room it was 19°C, the coldest I’ve been for months. Apart from weird bird noises and a loud car revving, I had a reasonable sleep.
Next morning, having been told we were leaving at 12:00 (6am), I got a knock on the door at 11:30 (5:30am) and had to get ready within about 10 minutes. I’d slept in my clothes and basically had to pack a few things away and use the bowl. They put me on a minibus and, unshaven, unwashed and (thankfully) – not needing a number 2, set off for Bahir Dar. After getting my bags carried to a Bajaj (motor scooter rickshaw) and getting the price down from a Ferengi 30 birr to a still expensive 10 birr, I arrived at Judith’s apartment at 8am. I had a big coffee, then we went to the Ghion hotel and had French toast breakfast overlooking the, very calm, Lake Tana.
At Bahir Dar
home - less than a week now.
I have a big catch-up blg entry for the last few weeks to upload, but
can't until I can connect my laptop to a phone line.
Stay tuned...
Thursday, 5 June 2008
Yellam everything
There has been no water for days meaning no washing up, cleaning or personal washing. It finally came back Thursday morning. The electricity is ok at the moment, but has been off for extended periods. There has been no mobile signal for a while now and even the landline was down for days, so no internet. Even when it came back there was no connection to the net.
Marta (a VSO volunteer here for two weeks helping with English Language Improvement) told Belay (from VSO who came to check on my progress on Tuesday) how she thought it was amazing how I had survived here so long!
The meeting with Belay went well and the fulltime teacher counterparts + sharing a house with another volunteer next year has been confirmed.
It is raining frequently now. The place is very green (and muddy) and the humidity is in the high 70s % which means washing takes about two days (instead of one hour) to dry. Also there are many more biting insects. If I don’t get Malaria soon I shall be very surprised (even though I’m on malaria prophylaxis)!!
The mother in the house I am living in still has questionable toilet hygiene. The baby is walking (and banging on my door). Thank goodness I only have about a month to go before I come home to the
Yellam = There is no.
(I’ve had to edit this message several times to change time words like “Today” and “yesterday” as each day I get no connection the message has to be changed.)
Saturday, 31 May 2008
Water and good deeds
There hasn’t been any water since I’ve been back. Luckily I had two big buckets filled before I left, but now I’m down to about 2 litres – enough to wash my hands during the day. I am now running out of clothes as there wasn’t any water for a week before I went to Addis and I have all the clothes from my trip.
I have enough to drink, but not enough to wash and definitely not enough to wash clothes. I hope it comes on today.
I have a guy pestering me to edit his wedding video. It’s the one good turn deserves a lot of hassle. I edited one person’s video in the past and it came back to bite me because now this other one wants me to do his, and it’s not “when it’s convenient”, it’s “now”!
Also I printed lots of photos for people in Addis and gave them out, and one guy suddenly comes up and says “where is photo?” because I had printed him (free) about six photos, but there were two of him in a school and I had only printed the best one.
I’m always very cautious of relationships because they often seem one-sided or unbalanced – either one person is using the relationship to get something, or one person wants more from the other than they want to give. I always find that staying in and watching a DVD is safer and more enjoyable than “going out for a drink”. This, of course is coming from my “post arrival in hell-town”-mood and may change when I get used to it again.
Blue Nile Falls
I’m back in Gigel Beles and it’s taken a little while to adjust again. While I’m here it’s ok, but after being away for nearly two weeks in the comfort of a hotel and then apartment with hot showers, supermarkets with sweets, restaurants with ferengi food etc, it comes as quite a shock to return to no power, no water, smelly toilet and also to find it’s been raining for the last week and everywhere is slippery mud! I had the “what am I doing here – what a hell-hole” experience for a while.
Going back in time: on Monday I flew back to Bahir Dar after leaving most of my shopping with Belay (my programme manager) who will bring it when he visits Gilgel next week. On Tuesday, another volunteer, Marta, joined me – ready to return with me to Gilgel for two weeks to help with ELIP (English Language Improvement Programme) and on Wednesday, Marc, a German VSO Volunteer joined us – he was also coming to Gigel to do a quick one week computer sort out. He was one of the volunteers evacuated from Assosa.
On Wednesday it was a public holiday and all five of us (including Judith and Elsa who are based in Bahir Dar) went to visit the
The three of us returned to Gilgel on Thursday. It was the usual “run the gauntlet” at the bus station in Bahir Dar with all the attraction of three ferengi, but we got a fast minibus down to Kosober. Then we were lucky and got three seats on a pretty speedy bus to Chagni – much faster than last time – the bus was smaller and the new stretches of road are now accessible. It took us about 4 hours from entering the bus station at Bahir Dar, to reach Chagni. The next part was fairly horrendous. From arriving in Chagni at around 7:15 (local time = 1:15pm ferengi time) it took about three hours of waiting on the bus for it to go, stopping to drop off and pick up people and just generally being very slow on the bumpy, unpaved road.
Back in Gigel, it must’ve been raining a lot as streams were filling, the place was really green, but the downside was the unpaved streets were muddy and slippery. I paid a guy to carry my suitcase back to my house, and then went straight back out to help Marta and Marc. I had rung the college to book rooms for them at the local hotel, but as expected it doesn’t really work in the sticks and they ended up with rooms without a shower, toilet or any furniture other than a bed, and this meant they would have to use a stinky shared pit latrine and have no water in wash. It has now been sorted though and Marta and Marc spent the day in college do their thing.
I collected my post, including the January issue of National Geographic – I think it had been all around the country as the address was incorrect and instead of using Metekel Zone – where Gilgel is, they had put Makale – which is a town the other side of the country. Anyway, it got to me!
A rat has been visiting my kitchen while I’ve been away. There were droppings on the shelves and a couple of plastic lids had been nibbled! (Oh, and I saw it tonight.)
Numbers
Today (Saturday, 30th June) is 37 days to go until I come home for the summer.
Sunday 1st June will be my 200th day sleeping in my house in Gigel Beles
Monday 2nd June is my 250th day in
Sunday, 25 May 2008
Quick update from Addis Ababa
the ferengi (white) faces and repeating my news over and over again.
Mon 19 - School cluster workshop - I did my presentation about what I
am doing in Gigel including photos and video clips and it went well.
Tue 20 - More cluster workshop - nice lunch!
Wed 21 - Went shopping with Kev (the man who buys and sends food to me sometimes) - looking at flights home for the summer etc.
Thu 22 - HIV/AIDS workshop - some a bit dry, but some useful info
about bringing this more to the front in college "mainstreaming" it.
This may involve me doing a condom on a banana demo in October!!
Fri 23 - After a security meeting at VSO (see below) went shopping on
Bole road and managed to (at last) get some decent speakers for my MP3 player. I also found an SD card for 1800 ETB (about £70) which at home
would be £10 so left it! Also found a coffee shop like Starbucks and
even had hazelnut icecream - Addis is soooo different to Gigel, apart
from the open sewers and beggars you feel like you're at home!
Sat 24 - More shopping and eating in a place called "Piazza." There
was no power (the blackouts are rotated around the areas and many
shops now have generators on the pavement outside.)
Sun 25 - Nice omelette sandwich and chocolate donut for breakfast. And
now it's now.
I have eaten a variety of burgers and pizzas, tiramisu, cakes,
doughnuts and sweets while I've been here... yum! I also, for the
first time in 8 months, found a can of Diet Coke!!!
When I first arrived at the hotel, my shower was plugged into a bare
socket on the wall (no plastic blanking plate) and at some point in
the insertion process some wires touched and blew the circuit breakers
on the floor of the hotel. The guy did come and fix it, by buying a
new socket, really quickly though.
There is trouble building up in Assosa (the regional capital of
Benishangul Gumuz, but about 400km by air from me and a more like
700km by road so I'm safe) All the Assosa people have been evacuated
here to Addis and are waiting to see if they can go back next week.
It's really just the extra cautious approach of VSO, but on the good
side, it means some of the Assosa ICT people might come to Gilgel for a
week to sort out the computers while they wait to see when they can go
back home.
That's it for now, from the VSO office.